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Archive for ‘October, 2011’

Pizzeria Mozza

EatLA-97

WHY Pizza dough of perfect flavor and bite, paired with superb toppings; the margherita is simple the way E=MC2 is simple. WHAT Is Mozza’s pizza the second coming of Christ? You’d think so with all the hullabaloo around this pizzeria and its celebrity-chef parents, Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali. But the result is something more [...]

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Rambutan Thai

EatLA-93

WHY Delicious Thai tapas—such small plates as Thai rolls, crab rolls, larb and fried shrimp cakes—along with good sakes and Asian beers. WHAT A grim mini-mall is home to this sleek and stylish Thai bo’te, whose adjacent nightclub is a weekend scene. Avoid the too-sweet mee krob, but try all the rest of the small [...]

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Fred 62

EatLA-94

WHY Postmodern diner food (White-Trash Tuna Sandwich), served 24 hours a day in comfy booths at modest prices. WHAT Not only is Fred’s one of the few 24-hour eateries in L.A., but it also achieves that rare state of being all things to all people. High school kids looking to share after-school chili-cheese fries? Check. [...]

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Cliff’s Edge

EatLA-92

WHY For the most beautiful outdoor dining on the eastside, with food that suits the setting; try the leek and onion tart with an arugula salad, the rigatoni with wild-boar ragœ, and the warm seafood salad. Brunch is lovely, too. WHAT We’d eat Arby’s fare in this setting—a hidden walled garden built around a massive [...]

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Ocean Star Seafood

EatLA-88

WHY Don’t-miss dishes like salt-and-pepper shrimp, whole steamed fish and crab in black bean sauce. WHAT Vast and glossy, this reliable Cantonese restaurant is chaotic for dim sum and a bit more refined at dinner. The fresh and varied dim sum is served from rolling carts, and the seafood is consistently excellent. A seafood feast [...]

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Canelé

EatLA-89

WHY The most extraordinary plain omelet in town, served in a casual, open-kitchen room alongside a short list of really good French-American-Mediterranean dishes. Great brunch, too. WHAT Owner/chef Corina Weibel cooked at Campanile and Lucques, but her style at Canelé is more modest: it’s a convivial neighborhood bistro serving quality Cal-French-Mediterranean food at modest prices. [...]

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Blair’s

EatLA-91

WHY Owner/chef Marshall Blair, ex of Water Grill, is not only adept at preparing seafood (don’t miss the tuna tartare with spiced ginger vinaigrette), but he’s also got a way with meat and pastas, like the dreamy braised Colorado short ribs with polenta and leeks. WHAT Blair’s has everything an L.A. restaurant needs to be [...]

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All India Café

EatLA-86

WHY Thalis—think of them as Indian combo plates—offer a great way to begin or renew your acquaintance with this rich cuisine. WHAT This aptly named café features dishes from many regions of the Subcontinent. Standouts include masala dosa, a rich eggplant salad with tomato sauce and ginger yogurt, tandoori fish, lamb frankie and lentil soup. [...]

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Tibet Nepal House

EatLA-85

WHY The buffet lunch is inexpensive and wonderful. WHAT The mountaineer/photographer/chef trained in Austria and brings a gourmet sensibility to Tibetan and Nepalese cuisine, which is reminiscent of both Chinese and Indian food but more subtly flavored. Karma Tenzing Bhotia’s menu spans the Himalayas, from lowland curries and dals to highland yak, noodles and momos [...]

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Roma Italian Deli & Grocery

EatLA-83

WHY Excellent Italian prosciutti, cheeses, sausages, salumi and gnocchi, sold with style and lots of sample tastes. WHAT Roma’s fans are so passionate that they are almost a cult, and their leader is Rosario, who confidently proclaims his sandwiches, prosciutti and cheeses to be the best in the world. We’re not sure about that, but [...]

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