WHY Those ‘thin onion pancakes’—scallion-laced, layered and crunchy, and the cha-jiang mien noodles. WHAT Come here for the food, not the ambience. You’ll soon forget the harsh light and less-than-nurturing service when you start slurping a steaming bowl of Family Handmade Noodle Soup with hand-cut noodles and lots of other tasty stuff. The pan-fried dumplings [...]
October 28, 2011 | Posted in
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WHY Scallop enchiladas, seafood quesadillas, homemade salsas and heavenly beans, all of which you can eat in a setting of unusual (for a taqueria) charm. WHAT A fetching old bungalow with a stone fireplace and tree-shaded patio (it’s very Berkeley) is home to L.A.’s most acclaimed seafood-focused taqueria. WHO Occidental students and their professors, with [...]
October 28, 2011 | Posted in
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WHY Dishes like duck salad with black-bean sauce and Chinese ‘polenta’ with shrimp, mushrooms and scallions, along with a wine list created by the oenophile chef to harmonize with his menu. WHAT The setting is sophisticated and so is the menu, reflecting a French chef’s panache and a Chinese gourmand’s sense of robust flavor. Don’t [...]
October 28, 2011 | Posted in
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WHY For richly flavorful and sustainably produced modern comfort food—for vegans and carnivores alike—at moderate prices. Ask about dinner parties in her kitchen. WHAT Jennie Cook’s homey style of cooking suits her Pennsylvania Dutch roots—but the surprise is the commitment to sustainability and health. Her kitchen turns out great briskets and bacon-wrapped dates as well [...]
October 28, 2011 | Posted in
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WHY Pizza dough of perfect flavor and bite, paired with superb toppings; the margherita is simple the way E=MC2 is simple. WHAT Is Mozza’s pizza the second coming of Christ? You’d think so with all the hullabaloo around this pizzeria and its celebrity-chef parents, Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali. But the result is something more [...]
October 28, 2011 | Posted in
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WHY Delicious Thai tapas—such small plates as Thai rolls, crab rolls, larb and fried shrimp cakes—along with good sakes and Asian beers. WHAT A grim mini-mall is home to this sleek and stylish Thai bo’te, whose adjacent nightclub is a weekend scene. Avoid the too-sweet mee krob, but try all the rest of the small [...]
October 28, 2011 | Posted in
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WHY Postmodern diner food (White-Trash Tuna Sandwich), served 24 hours a day in comfy booths at modest prices. WHAT Not only is Fred’s one of the few 24-hour eateries in L.A., but it also achieves that rare state of being all things to all people. High school kids looking to share after-school chili-cheese fries? Check. [...]
October 28, 2011 | Posted in
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WHY For the most beautiful outdoor dining on the eastside, with food that suits the setting; try the leek and onion tart with an arugula salad, the rigatoni with wild-boar rag, and the warm seafood salad. Brunch is lovely, too. WHAT We’d eat Arby’s fare in this setting—a hidden walled garden built around a massive [...]
October 28, 2011 | Posted in
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WHY Don’t-miss dishes like salt-and-pepper shrimp, whole steamed fish and crab in black bean sauce. WHAT Vast and glossy, this reliable Cantonese restaurant is chaotic for dim sum and a bit more refined at dinner. The fresh and varied dim sum is served from rolling carts, and the seafood is consistently excellent. A seafood feast [...]
October 28, 2011 | Posted in
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WHY The most extraordinary plain omelet in town, served in a casual, open-kitchen room alongside a short list of really good French-American-Mediterranean dishes. Great brunch, too. WHAT Owner/chef Corina Weibel cooked at Campanile and Lucques, but her style at Canelé is more modest: it’s a convivial neighborhood bistro serving quality Cal-French-Mediterranean food at modest prices. [...]
October 28, 2011 | Posted in
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