WHY Asian, American, Latin and whatever-else-Roy-Choi-feels-like-cooking dishes intermingle in perfect harmony at this unfussy neighborhood restaurant that’s something of an indoor picnic.

WHAT Whether it’s the crisp Beer Can Chicken or the cheekily named Knuckle Sandwich (a massive bowl of broth bobbing with oxtail, tendon and other unloved meaty bits), the man who invented the Kogi taco proves he’s no one-hit-wonder. The house-made bread—a lightly sweet, five-grain pan de sal studded with sesame seeds—is a must. So are the churros, thick rectangles of deep-fried, cinnamon-coated pound cake served with vanilla ice cream in a cup of chocolate-malt dipping sauce.

WHO Taco-truck junkies looking for a more grown-up fix, meat lovers, architecture fans who enjoy seeing an old IHOP put to good use.