WHY A smart, international wine list, tasty small plates and good-value specials.

WHAT A sign if there ever was one of Echo Park’s gentrification, Allston is a small, dark, clubby place with very good wines, a full bar, tasty small-plate dishes and a couple of very nice owners who are longtime Silver Lake/Echo Park residents—but who originally hailed from Boston, hence the eccentric name. Check the website for frequent happy-hour and special-night bargains.

WHO Echo Park Town Council folks and hip folks seeking a quieter meal than at nearby Mohawk Bend.