WHY Rich oxtails, braised artichokes, green lasagne and other delicious pastas, and wonderful branzino.

WHAT There are fancier Italian restaurants in town, but few with better food than this one (and chef Gino Angelini’s other restaurant, La Minestraio). The minimalist storefront is packed a little too tightly, and the room’s a little too loud, but that only seems to make the food taste better. If only it wasn’t so expensive, we’d eat this Italian soul food every week.

WHO A sophisticated crowd that cares more about the cooking than the scene, although there is a bit of a scene anyway.