WHY A fascinating cuisine; squint at the menu and you’ll recognize derivatives (or ancestors) of such Indian, Pakistani, Persian and Chinese dishes as pakoras, curries, dumplings, kebabs and pilafs.

WHAT An elegant, white-tablecloth restaurant with a restful, welcoming atmosphere, Azeen’s is just a block from the Old Pas swarms. Share a sampler plate of appetizers followed by tender beef kebabs or quabili pallaw (lamb with carrots and raisins). Sweet, translucent butternut squash (kadu) is a delicious side.