WHY For the soon dubu jjigae, a spicy, garlicky stew of fresh tofu that bubbles like volcanic lava in its individual iron pot. The superheated dish cooks a raw egg that the server cracks in at your table. Seafood or bits of meat add extra flavor to the extravaganza.

WHAT Rivals of this 25-year old café—including a well-known chain—may seek to encroach on its long-held supremacy, but we’re drawn back for the cloud-like texture of its tofu, the spot-on balance of its broth and the charming rural ambience, with rustic tables fashioned from sliced trees.