WHY NYC chef Laurent Tourondel understands the true meaning of the Holy Trinity: meat, potatoes and pastry.

WHAT There are a lot of things to like about BLT: sauces that are actually worthy of the top-quality steaks (three-mustard, chimichurri); non-beef mains that are often even better than the excellent steaks; potatoes nine ways (the gratin is so worth the calories); the huge popovers; and too many tempting caramelized/souffléd/creamed desserts to choose from. Save big bucks (you are not going to skip dessert here) with the daily blackboard menu, a $60 prix-fixe three-course dinner.

WHO At these prices, and with the Sunset Boulevard location, a celebrity or two is inevitable, and Bentleys are parked three deep at the valet stand.