WHY For Mark Peel’s mastery of simple grilled meats, for the desserts, for Thursday grilled cheese night and for the handsome, old-L.A. setting that makes everyone happy.

WHAT Lucques may be the Campanile of the new millennium, but that doesn’t mean Campanile peaked in the ’90s. It remains the perfect L.A. restaurant, the sort of place that doesn’t make us want to up and move to San Francisco or Portland, like so many of our scene restaurants do. Owner/chef Mark Peel loves bold, rustic flavors that are carefully built but not complicated—a California-Mediterranean cuisine that focuses on exceptional ingredients. If you haven’t been here in ages, come back—you won’t be sorry.

WHO Business folks at lunch, stylish families on Thursdays for grilled cheese night and, for dinner, longtime regulars.