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WHY This carefully constructed Cal-Mediterranean seafood menu is worth the splurge, especially when you consider the setting.

WHAT High ceilings, crisp white walls and floor-to-ceiling windows frame the dazzling view at this privileged outpost of elegant, yet unshowoffy, cuisine. A chef change led to a menu change as well, so the Asian influences gave way to ones from the Mediterranean—so now you see lemon confit, fresh pastas, lentils, fennel and even steaks and sides of garlic spinach and thyme-roasted fingerlings. It’s more generic upscale-hotel, but it satisfies, and when you add the setting, it satisfies a hell of a lot.

WHO Beautiful people with big bank accounts, sipping $15 pre-dinner cocktails in the adjacent lounge.

Hotel Casa del Mar, 1910 Ocean Way, , 310.581.7714, hotelcasadelmar.com. B, L & D daily. MC, V, AE.
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