WHY Nostalgic charm for natives, and decent coffee-shop fare at 3 a.m.
WHAT L.A.’s original Du-par’s still has the red Naugahyde booths but is brighter and prettier after an overhaul a few years back. Seen-it-all waitresses in gingham-trimmed uniforms and tiny white caps deliver huge (if overcooked) omelets, good (if not as good as in our childhoods) french toast, lovely pancakes and steaming pot pies. Outside is a patio that looks like a French sidewalk café; would that the lukewarm coffee was as good as in France. Oh well, the cooking is satisfyingly homey—and Du-par’s is open 24/7.
WHO Seniors, high-school kids and screenwriters on a budget.