WHY One word: duck.

WHAT There are lots of good things to order (scallion pancakes, beef with garlic, the mountain yam jelly called konnyaku) but it’s really all about the three-course duck dinner, a great feast to share with friends. It starts with a platter of crisp, salty-sweet skin and moist meat to wrap in pancakes with a bit of scallion and a smear of hoisin, then proceeds to stir-fried duck with bean sprouts and concludes with an aromatic and wonderful duck soup. Note that you must call at least an hour ahead to order your duck.

WHO Lots of birthday-party and other celebratory groups.