WHY Because sushi masters are judged by their rice.

WHAT ‘No cooked stuff’ warns a hand-scribbled notice at this no-frills Tokyo-style sushi restaurant in a generic West L.A. strip mall. They’re not kidding—there’s no edamame, no California rolls, no attitude. Just Hitoshi Kataoka’s glistening, warm sushi rice topped with supremely fresh fish, plus a simple miso soup and a seaweed salad. ‘Trust me’ proclaims the daily catch chalkboard—it’s omakase (chef’s choice) only at the sushi counter, although tables can be a la carte or omakase. Lunchtime brings a great bargain: a $14 ‘sushi lunch set,’ with five pieces and a blue crab hand roll.

WHO Westside sushi buffs who want everything from ankimo to uni at a more reasonable price than some of the better-known competition.