WHY The best dim sum in Chinatown, and good Hong Kong—style seafood for dinner, too.

WHAT Chinatown’s most elegant restaurant, Empress Pavilion is packed for weekend dim sum; we prefer coming during the week. It’s lesser known for dinner, but the more than respectable cooking (steamed Dungeness crab with flat noodles in garlic sauce) and professional service make it a good place to know about, especially for groups.

WHO Businesspeople, large family groups and, on weekends, friends from around L.A. meeting for dim sum.