WHY Absolutely superb Mexican food: a huge, tender pork shank with tomatillo sauce, addictive potato taquitos, grilled shrimp and achiote-infused chicken, rice so good it makes Mexican-Americans weep in memory of their grandmothers, and heavenly chocolate bread pudding.

WHAT Enrique Perez can make a burrito if that’s what you really want, but you’re better off letting this Guadalajara native show you his real stuff, perhaps the roasted peppers filled with cheese and potatoes and served with guac and a tomato-onion pico de gallo. Between the ranchera music, the low prices and the outstanding food, this place give its regulars lots of reasons to be happy.

WHO A great Long Beach cross-section, minus the party-hearty margarita crowd (beer and wine only): upscale couples, working-class families, golfers from the neighboring course, college students, other restaurateurs.