WHY Addictive tabletop-grilled skewers that blur the boundary between Korean and Chinese cooking.

WHAT Feng Mao is a hybrid, its kitchen preparing the Korean-Chinese cuisine of China’s Jilin province. Accordingly, you’re as likely to spot platters of the Korean blood sausage soondae here as you are bowls of mapo tofu. But the fusion is at its best with its signature mutton kebabs: Lean cubes of meat and strategic strips of fat are threaded onto skewers and charred at tabletop grills, blackened first on a lower rung then moved above the fire to soak up some smoke. The mutton is dusted with the mix of ground cumin, sesame seeds and chile powder that flavors all of the kebab menu, from simple chicken wings to all kinds of offal.

WHO Koreatown locals congregating for family dinners and Hite-fueled benders.