WHY Because the food is much better than at most Hollywood scene restaurants. Extras are the good bar menu (tater tot fondue!) and the live jazz.

WHAT Owner/chef Eric Greenspan may be rumpled, exuberant and sometimes annoyingly loud, but his cooking is elegant. He set out to create a destination restaurant that combines serious food and professional service with an informal conviviality and good jazz. And he has succeeded. The details snap: a terrific, fairly priced wine list, one of the best cheese plates in town, and smart service.

WHO A remarkably normal crowd—sure, they’re attractive, but they’re all ages and don’t look overly Botoxed and lip-plumped.