WHY You wish you were in Paris but you’re settling for Venice.

WHAT This indoor/outdoor café and market on south Abbot Kinney has catered to homesick ex-pats since 1993. You may be the only English speaker in line waiting to order French comfort food: omelets with a green salad;le cheval (fried egg atop ham and melted Swiss on a toasted baguette); salade niçoise (with Michel Blanchet smoked trout); and traditional boeuf bourguignon and blanquette de poulet. Shelves and cases hold frozen entrées, wines, stinky cheeses, canned escargots, pâtés, French magazines and such sweets as calissons from Aix-en-Provence.

WHO Both chic and tracksuit-clad French folks.