WHY It’s everything a modern taquería should be in Los Angeles—adaptive and inventive yet traditional and classic.

WHAT Guisados was born from the minds behind Cook’s Tortas, and here they channel the creativity of Cook’s into homey stews and braises swaddled in sturdy, rough-hewn tortillas. The menu is forever changing, but keep an eye peeled for the tacos of smoky chicken tinga, deeply caramelized steak picado, earthy and subtly sweet mole and delicatecalabacitas, a sort-of succotash of corn, zucchini, tomato, onion and a few crumbles of cheese.

WHO Lunching business folks and young Boyle Heights families.