WHY Pitchers of Japanese beer, bottles of sake and fun small dishes, from the udon-and-yakitori standards to such novelties as fried kim chee with pork and caterpillar sushi rolls.

WHAT In the shopping-intensive locale of Rolling Hills Plaza, this family-style izakaya comforts everyone with an enormously long menu that ranges from the basic to the inventive, and it’s all served until 2 a.m.