WHY Intelligent and sometimes almost whimsical dishes like ground chicken with a light miso glaze in lettuce wraps, as well as exquisitely fresh, flown-in-from-Japan sashimi.

WHAT This modern izakaya hidden in a shopping center has an airy open kitchen and sleek lines that give it a quiet dignity. Ultra-fine as well as more modest sakes (ask for the bound notebook that holds the labels) have been smartly selected to pair with the modern Japanese fare.

WHO Izakaya diners more interested in the quality of the food than a noisy scene.