WHY Tender, just-fatty-enough pork ribs, pulled-pork sandwiches, rib tips, brisket and cornbread, to eat at the one picnic table or to take home—except most people can’t wait until they get home and rip into the ribs in the car.

WHAT Barbecue fans can (and do) argue for days, weeks, even years about whose ribs are best, and it often comes down to personal taste. Jay Bee’s, however, has the considerable distinction of winning a Chowhounds blind taste test. Other than the generic cole slaw, the food at this takeout shack is really, really good—worth a detour.