WHY For the complimentary pâté and lavosh (why doesn’t every restaurant offer this?), the strong drinks (watch out!) and the clubby, comforting atmosphere.

WHAT A Naples institution, Kelly’s is where politicians and business leaders kibitz over huge martinis at the bar while hungry folks with well-stocked wallets sit in cushy booths and eat steak, prime rib and Caesar salad. Good old-school service.

WHO Everyone who’s anyone in Long Beach.