WHY For exquisitely made tempura and high-caliber izakaya-style little dishes.
WHAT If there were a Tempura Olympics, chef Hiroshi Komatsu would surely get the gold. He plucks your tempura from his proprietary blend of scalding oil and serves the lacy, crackle-crusted fish and vegetables one piece at a time so they never cool and wilt. He also comes up with such novelties as tempura chestnuts stuffed with umeboshi plums.
WHO Discriminating tradition-loving Japanese and anyone wanting to graduate from mundane fried chicken.