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WHY To pretend you’re in Barcelona, or the East Village, or maybe Berkeley, if only for an evening.
WHAT On the edge of Little Tokyo, in a no-frills, noisy modern pub, chef Josef Centeno turns out food that will make you think you’re not in L.A. anymore. Every night brings a different main course served for two—perhaps leg of lamb with side dishes for just $29. Centeno’s food is what fusion cooking should be: vibrant, complementary flavors in exciting combinations. Don’t miss the batter-dipped fried anchovies drizzled with saffron honey, the buttermilk-fried chicken (eat your heart out, Paula Deen) and the hand-torn egg pasta with a sunnyside-up egg. This is no place for timid eaters—the menu is gleefully larded with lamb cheeks, veal tongue, pig’s ears and other esoterica. The eclectic wine list has tons of choices under $35, and the globe-trotting beer list omits anything bland.
WHO A throng of Downtown denizens who appear to lead far more interesting lives than you do.
Region: Eastside
Neighborhood: Little Tokyo/Arts District
Features: Dinner, Essentially L.A., Kid Friendly, Open Late, Patio Dining, Vegetarian
Price Range: $17-$24
Cuisine Type: Modern American, Pub
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My pet peeve – photos without captions. What is the meal pictured? Salmon with??? Was it good?
Sorry, Juan, the way our database-to-WordPress system is set up, it won’t allow us to add captions. But I’m going to check with our WordPress expert to see if we can solve that. Don’t want to aggravate any pet peeves!
The dish is salmon on a bed of French lentils from Lazy Ox, and yes, it was fantastic. Their menu changes often, so it may not be offered now, but pretty much everything is terrific there.