WHY The best Mexican food in the Valley—with margaritas, to boot.

WHAT Chef Jimmy Shaw of the original Lotería Grill in the Farmers Market and its successful spinoff in Hollywood now rules the second floor of the strip mall at Ventura and Laurel Canyon. In an airy space decorated with blowups of vintage lotería cards, Shaw’s cooks whip up all the Lotería favorites—tacos, tostadas, sopes and burritos with richly flavorful fillings like cochinita pibil, nopalitos and shrimp with spicy morita sauce—plus more substantial dishes, such as grilled skirt steak and chiles relleños. The margaritas are killer.

WHO Aficionados of real Mexico City cooking.