WHY Pan-fried pork dumplings that will have you eating far more than propriety or good health demand.

WHAT Given the amount of competition, particularly in these parts, it takes a lot of chutzpah to call yourself ‘Luscious Dumplings,’ but this simple café’s wares deserve the appellation. Each dumpling’s covering sports a different decorative pleating that indicates its filling type. Steamed pork dumplings hold the requisite pool of interior broth to suck out before polishing off the rest. Empanada-shaped, golden fried dumplings balance chive, pork, egg and crunchy bits of dried shrimp; a modicum of savory pork brings fish and napa cabbage together for an ethereal filling. Be warned: The early bird gets the dumpling—a small line often forms when it opens, and the kitchen sometimes runs out of the most popular ones.

WHO Devotees who eat here as often as possible.

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