WHY Those ‘thin onion pancakes’—scallion-laced, layered and crunchy, and the cha-jiang mien noodles.

WHAT Come here for the food, not the ambience. You’ll soon forget the harsh light and less-than-nurturing service when you start slurping a steaming bowl of Family Handmade Noodle Soup with hand-cut noodles and lots of other tasty stuff. The pan-fried dumplings and the pork or shrimp soup noodle are good, too.