WHY For evolved, lighter-than-you-expect Austro-Hungarian cuisine.

WHAT At this pretty and secluded NoHo spot, everyone seems to know chef Laszlo Bossanyi, who for 20 years built a following with his Hungarian comfort food at shuttered Hortobagy in Studio City. He smokes his own lower-fat kolb‡sz (sausages), duck breast and salmon and makes such dishes as loup de mer (Mediterranean sea bass) in a delicate lobster ragout and the hefty BurgenlŠnder platter for two, served tableside.

WHO Patrons from the old-line Hungarian community, many who immigrated in the ’50s, and those who yearn for a taste of crisp-skinned roast duck with spaetzle.