WHY Martinis, atmosphere, flannel cakes, atmosphere, chicken pot pie and atmosphere.
WHAT God knows it isn’t the cooking that makes this place an essential L.A. restaurant—it’s the rich blend of traditional architecture and Hollywood history, faded smoke and legendary lies, all aged to an irresistible patina. (Okay, the cocktails are part of the draw, too.) Don’t eat the vegetables or try to chat up the old-school waiters, but do linger at the bar as long as possible.
WHO Crusty old showbiz men, young bucks.