WHY Pizzas as good as Mozza’s, only less expensive and with less hoopla surrounding them.

WHAT Bradford Kent is an obsessive fellow, prone to toss out dough that he feels isn’t just right, and refusing to serve a pizza that is the slightest bit overcooked. Given the tendency toward overly blackened crusts these days, that alone endears him to us. Everything in this simple corner café is touched by the wood oven, from the superb Naples-style pizzas (try the Margherita Plus with burrata) to the addictive breakfast bialys to the roasted shishito peppers. When they get their wine license and add sidewalk tables, it’ll be even better.

WHO Neighbors stopping in for a bialy a pizza to take home or a quiet meal at the café.