WHY Such exquisite French-influenced small plates as shrimp-mousse-filled ravioli with shiitake sauce, grilled hearts of romaine salad, filet mignon with Roquefort butter and foie gras with Japanese eggplant.

WHAT After running Franco-Japanese restaurant Shiro in South Pasadena for many years, chef Hideo Yamashiro flipped the name and opened the smaller and more casual Orris on Sawtelle’s Japanese restaurant row. Reservations aren’t accepted for the spare, modern eatery, but there is seating at the chic granite bar and on the patio. Yamashiro pairs his food with premium sakes and good wines.

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