WHY For delicious, expensive steaks, satisfying, expensive breakfasts, 1920s elegance and food served 24 hours a day. Great for serious business meetings and gleeful middle-of-the-night splurges.
WHAT Dating to 1921, this added-upon former railroad dining car on the fringes of downtown is as beloved as Musso & Frank and even more—but the food’s a lot better. Steaks are the specialty, and they’re terrific if someone else is buying; stick with breakfast if you’re buying. Note that the room temp is akin to a meat locker, so dress warmly. The Santa Monica branch is less noteworthy. Wednesday is free-corkage night.
WHO L.A.’s power brokers, writers trying to channel the ghost of Raymond Chandler (who ate here), the rich and elderly and, at 3 a.m., the young, drunk and bleary.