WHY A particularly lavish and beautiful array ofpanchan, the small appetizers that accompany traditional Korean barbecue, and meat of very high quality.

WHAT As far in atmosphere from smoky, funky barbecue joints like Soot Bull Jeep as you can get, Park is spare and industrial-chic, with a gorgeous and fairly formal serving staff and powerful ventilation whisking away smoke from the tabletop grills. It’s an investment to cook your own meat here, but it’s a worthwhile one: the prime short ribs, bulgogi, pork belly and Kobe-style beef are all superb.

WHO Businesspeople and well-heeled couples.