WHY Marvelously soggy dip sandwiches (beef, lamb, pork), which Philippe’s claims to have invented.

WHAT We’ve been coming to Philippe’s since we were knee-high to a wooden stool, and there’s nothing we love more than sitting on a wooden stool in this 1908 order-at-the-counter, sawdust-on-the-floor landmark. The french dips are delicious, the wine by the glass is surprisingly good, and the counter ladies wear fetching little hats. What’s not to adore?

WHO A marvelous array of Angelenos: miniature Chinese ladies, strapping cops, big-shot politicians, down-on-their-luckers who scraped together enough for a sandwich and a cup of the legendary ten-cent coffee.