WHY Pizza dough of perfect flavor and bite, paired with superb toppings; the margherita is simple the way E=MC2 is simple.

WHAT Is Mozza’s pizza the second coming of Christ? You’d think so with all the hullabaloo around this pizzeria and its celebrity-chef parents, Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali. But the result is something more earthy than celestial—heaven on earth, we’ll call it. The food, and not just the pizzas (try the bruschetta, roasted brussels sprouts and salads), really is worth all the fuss. The at-the-counter deal at lunch and in the late evening ($20 for pizza, dessert and a glass of wine) is awesome.

WHO Food groupies so happy to have scored a tiny table or a counter seat.