WHY The gorgeous old hotel, the fabulous setting, the appetizers and the beautiful people.

WHAT Atmosphere oozes out of this new dining room in the historic Roosevelt: tufted leather banquettes, burnished woods, marble tables, painted ceilings and aproned waiters who really know what they’re doing. Everyone gets the squishy Parker House rolls and samples the terrific cocktails. As for the food, we adore the starters—chicarrones, cheeses, diver scallops with zucchini risotto, charred octopus, crabcakes—but have been disappointed with entrees (dry pork schnitzel, ordinary steak frites). Desserts are rich and all-American.

WHO Before 9 p.m., a diverse mix of foodies chat over relaxed meals; by 10, it’s all beautiful twentysomethings shouting over blasting music.