WHY Wonderful dinner theater in the form of a bottomless Gujarati thali.

WHAT Of the many buffets scattered throughout Little India—where idle curries sometimes congeal under heat lamps—none approach the exacting elegance of Rajdhani. Here, all-you-can-eat meals aren’t ladled from steam tables but delivered by a cast of waiters armed with the components of a first-rate vegetarian thali. No two meals are exactly alike; however, there will probably be dal (lentils simmered into spicy submission), khadi (soupy, spiced yogurt) and maybe khandvi (springy gram-flour rolls covered in cilantro, shaved coconut and coriander seeds). There will always be crisp, pliable chapati (flatbread) and a vegetable curry, perhaps spears of tender okra or soft-as-jam eggplant. Eventually, there will be gulab jamun, fresh little doughnuts swimming in sweet cardamom and saffron syrup.

WHO Discerning Little India locals and well-traveled vegetarians.