WHY Tender al pastor with a crunchy glaze, pit-barbecued lamb and chicken on weekends, and tender but lean pierna de cerdo (pork leg), served in burritos or tortas.

WHAT First-timers come for the excellent tacos and burritos, then return for the Saturday and Sunday barbacoa, whole pit-roasted lamb, served in two courses: lamb soup, followed by the roasted lamb with rice, beans and guacamole.

WHO North Valley carnivores—and even a few vegetarians, who come for the fine vegetarian burrito.