WHY The country-rustic, ultra-atmospheric setting, not to mention the seared foie gras, elk tenderloin and a wine list bulging with trophy cabs.

WHAT Decorated like a rustic hunting lodge and set in the spectacular mountains that divide Malibu from the Valley, Saddle Peak is that rarest of birds: a special-occasion restaurant that has remained special for years, despite several changes of chef. Expect a menu heavy on exotic meats and poultry (quail, venison, elk), excellent and attentive service and, at the end of the evening, a whacking big bill.

WHO Well-heeled, well-dressed Angelenos who may have driven quite a distance to get here, and they’re typically celebrating something.