WHY The pampering, the prestige and the people-watching. Also the spaghetti with tomato and basil, which is as good as its $24 price tag would suggest.

WHAT Scott Conant’s unfussy Mediterranean fare appeals both to the conservative older crowd and the moneyed young bucks who frequent this deluxe hotel restaurant. The kitchen shines at pasta, and although you have to ask for it, there’s an entire vegetarian menu. Foodies take note: The chefs welcome visitors to the spectacular kitchen, so ask your waiter to take you back there.