WHY The most jaw-dropping array of live seafood swim in spotless tanks: striped bass, spot prawns, eel, catfish, conch, oysters, cultured abalone, even Taiwanese frogs.

WHAT A large, clean space is lined with uniform-size tanks holding everything from the sea or rivers you could possibly want to eat—and if you can’t find it live, you’ll likely find it on ice. Prices are excellent on popular items ($9.99 for live Maine lobster), but you’ll pay dearly for the rarities, like live Australian coral trout for $45 a pound.

WHO Chinese-American home cooks planning a special feast, and some local chefs.