WHY Ambitious cuisine for discriminating eaters.
WHAT In its coveted spot—the second floor of the huge Chinese Focus Plaza—Shanghai could probably get by serving the usual cold wine chicken, spicy cold beef tendon and a few pedestrian hot pots. Those are on the menu, but the kitchen turns out more sophisticated fare, such as poached dumpling-like rolled tofu sheets stuffed with meat and the Chinese green chi-tsai. Tender, savory custard with clams is another wonder. And those fond of assertive flavors might try a thin fish fillet coated in deep red wine lees (an inspiration from Fujian to the south). But avoid the braised pork knuckle with soy sauce, a sad mound of congealed fat.