WHY The kebabs and Middle Eastern classics are good, but live a little and try some of the seasonal Persian specialties, like the chicken stewed with cherries.

WHAT This fine old-timer is good for Persian classics; a specialty is fish pilaf, a traditional dish for the Iranian New Year. But most regulars return for the chicken kebabs, hummus, and robust stews served over basmati rice. Service is sometimes grumpy, and the setting is comfortable but nothing special, so the local delivery is popular.;