WHY To worship at the shrine of California cuisine.

WHAT Wolfgang Puck still works the room from time to time, when he’s not off overseeing his global empire, but this is really Lee Hefter’s kingdom, and it’s a magical kingdom indeed. Hefter-Puck (with chef de cuisine Tetsu Yahagi) have kept the standards at peak level for years, and the cooking today is every bit as exciting, beautiful and delicious as it was a decade ago. And Sherry Yard’s desserts are fantastic. The über—Beverly Hills setting and service do the kitchen justice. Worth the considerable splurge, especially if you’re entertaining out-of-towners.

WHO International hot shots, movie stars and serious eaters.