WHY Well-executed versions of South Africa’s culinary hits: curries, chile sauces, meaty barbecues, a subtly spicy Naidoo’s Durban curry, and tasty kebabs called sosaties.

WHAT Because this is L.A.’s only South African restaurant, you might envision a modest, family-owned spot where you could sample a few of those wonderful South African wines and explore a delicious multicultural cuisine with European, Malaysian, East Indian and African elements. A cuisine, it would seem, perfectly suited to L.A. tastes. At first, the fantasy is crushed by the sports bar setting. But chef Trevor Netmann is turning out the real thing in a sea of flat-screen TVs and rugby matches.;

WHO South African ex-pats, rugby fans and curious diners.