WHY For earthy Lebanese classics with an edge of sophistication, served all day long.

WHAT Some may remember owner Em Tony’s handiwork from the luxe Al Amir opposite LACMA, where she cooked in the ’80s. Now she reigns over a sparkling open kitchen in a big, buzzing space, where you can often watch her turning out pristine kibbeh (beef-stuffed wheat ovals), moujadrah (caramelized onion—topped lentil pilaf) or a layered moussaka. It’s likely the best Lebanese on the westside.

WHO Persians from the neighborhood who want a change of pace, UCLA profs and students, and a huge following of regulars.