WHY To travel back in time in the heart of the Valley.

WHAT Swiss-trained chef Ueli Huegli has transformed a tired Italian restaurant, with a menu pulled largely from the late, lamented Matterhorn Chef, where he used to cook. The extensive menu includes Italian pastas (handmade gnocchi is a specialty) as well as hearty Swiss-German dishes, such as sauerbraten, fondue, schnitzels and wursts. We wish the raclette was made with more flavorful cheese, and that the wienerschnitzel was tastier. But the Berner plate, a groaning board of grilled sausages, smoked pork and pork belly, is an indulgent treat, and a hefty portion of osso buco is rich and satisfying. A few items are pricey—the warm, oversized Bavarian pretzel is terrific but costs $8.

WHO Older folk reminiscing about the good old days.