WHY Except for low prices, this place has everything that’s missing from Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne’s other restaurants with similar farmers’-market-friendly Cal-French cuisine: breakfast, brunch, kids’ menus, cocktail bar, even a takeout counter.

WHAT This glammed-up addition to the Lucques/AOC family is light-filled by day and romantic by night, with a takeout-friendly café as a bonus. (You’d never guess this used to be a Hamburger Hamlet.) The food’s excellent, if affordable only to 90049 residents. We also love the clever kid’s menu (‘no parsley’ pasta with butter and parmesan), the great but overpriced bar ($14 vodka gimlets?) and, finally, bread worthy of Goin’s food, made by in-house baker Nathan Dakdouk, who is sure to be christened L.A.’s next sourdough king.

WHO Goin worshippers with deep pockets in the dining room; locals picking up prepared salads, multigrain cherry-cashew bread and cookies from the takeout ‘larder.’