WHY Los Feliz and East Hollywood were surprisingly weak on the burger front. Not anymore. And Umami’s eastern outpost adds a Japanese beer-and-oyster bar to the mix.

WHAT Adam Fleischman takes burgers very, very seriously. He grinds the beef from flap steak and short ribs, gets soft, shiny yet sturdy buns from a Portuguese bakery, and offers such toppings as grilled onions, parmesan cheese crisps and shiitake mushrooms. The signature Umami burger has a rich savoriness; other choices include the Triple Pork, the Turkey Miso, the Hatch (chile), the Truffle Cheese and the Earth (veggie). It’s just too bad the service so often falls short.

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